Chargeurs PCC, the world leader in the production of interlinings and inner components for apparel, produces more than 350 million metres of interlining a year serving more than 7000 customers. It has a global presence with 8 production sites, 21 testing laboratories, 39 subsidiaries and sales offices. It serves more than 90 countries across all continents. To further expand its wing, the company is actively on the lookout for opportunities to tap into the dynamic Indian market, especially in terms of exploring potential manufacturing opportunities. In an exclusive interview with Apparel Resources, Gianluca Tanzi, CEO and Chairman of Chargeurs PCC, shares insights into the company’s strategic initiatives for India.
AR: Currently, Chargeurs PCC does not have a manufacturing presence in India. Why?
Gianluca: Well, our plan is to dive into action as soon as possible. But before we take any leaps, it’s crucial that we understand the landscape inside out. Two things are at the forefront of our minds here. Firstly, we need to assess the demand from both domestic and overseas customers. Secondly, we’re considering the logistics of what we can export from India. The government’s support has been outstanding. It’s rare to come across politicians with such a forward-thinking mindset.
Now, let’s talk numbers. Currently, we’re exporting approximately 40,000 kilometres of interlinings to India. In addition to our offices, we also have a warehouse located in Chennai. Our client roster includes some heavy hitters in the industry, such as Ambattur Clothing Ltd., Shahi Exports and Richa Group. We’re proud to serve nearly 500 customers all over India. These customers include a diverse mix of vendors, brands and domestic giants like Aditya Birla and Reliance. Oh, and let’s not forget about Raymond – we’ve got a solid partnership going with them too. When it comes to domestic brands, they’re the backbone of our business.
AR: What advantages does India offer compared to others?
Gianluca: Let me break it down for you. When it comes to logistics, India offers some strategic advantages. From a geographical standpoint, it’s positioned in a way that facilitates better growth compared to China. Plus, it’s a prime location for exports to the United States. But here’s the kicker–if you want to capitalise on these advantages, you need to have everything lined up just right.
First of all, you need access to the right ports and efficient documentation processes. And when it comes to shipments, timing is key. Take Mumbai, for instance. If you can ship directly from there to New York, you’re looking at a transit time of just 10 to 12 days. Compare that to starting from Shanghai, which would take a whopping 28 days. Now, that’s a significant competitive advantage–but it requires smooth and efficient operations.
AR: How does Chargeurs PCC cater to the Indian market without having a manufacturing unit here?
Gianluca: We’re operating straight out of our bonded and duty-paid warehouse right here in India. This means we’ve got our storage facilities all set up and ready to go. You see, our interlinings are sourced from our manufacturing units spread across eight different countries including Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and China. Then, they make their way here, where Indian apparel brands come into play as importers. The process runs smoothly, with the choice of import destination based on each product’s specific requirements. For example, certain products are more suited for production in Sri Lanka or Bangladesh due to technical reasons. However, for some other products, China is a better option. It really boils down to the specific needs of each product.
AR: How does Chargeurs PCC define Indian industry’s needs?
Gianluca: I firmly believe that we need to listen to India, understand its desires and then do our best to support it in achieving those goals. For us, it’s crucial to offer India more than just cheap, low-cost interlinings with no real performance. We’re striving to provide India with interlinings that offer a solid structure and elevate the overall quality of the product. Why? Because quality is non-negotiable, especially if we want to tap into overseas markets. European and American consumers demand a certain level of quality, particularly in terms of durability, after multiple washes. If a garment falls apart after just a few washes, it reflects poorly on the brand. Our goal is to ensure that our products stand the test of time and meet the highest standards of quality.
AR: How has garment market evolved over time?
Gianluca: There’s been quite a shift in the dynamics of the garment industry over the years. If we look back twenty years ago, it was like a pyramid–there were a handful of high-end luxury brands at the top, followed by a significant number of medium-range producers, and then a vast market of mass-market brands at the bottom. But now, the landscape has changed.
Today, we’re witnessing a polarisation of the market. While there’s still a good number of luxury brands, the middle range has shrunk considerably and the mass market segment has exploded in size. It’s like a clear divide between the extremes–a booming market for small, niche brands coexisting with a massive market for mass-produced goods.
When considering where to position ourselves in this spectrum–whether catering to the top or the bottom–we realise there aren’t as many options as before. The evolution is evident, and India, in particular, has the potential to excel in serving its domestic luxury market. However, the real game-changer lies in the mass market.
This segment offers immense potential for volume, employment generation and economic growth. But here’s the catch-you need to strike a delicate balance between low production costs and maintaining decent quality. It’s easy to churn out low-quality products at low costs, but delivering affordability without compromising quality requires expertise and know-how. And that’s where the real challenge lies. And it’s not just about quality; it’s also deeply tied to sustainability–a concept that’s close to our hearts.
AR: Could you share with us the sustainability efforts your company has undertaken?
Gianluca: We have made herculean efforts in this regard. Over 50 per cent of our product line falls under the sustainable category in one way or another. Plus, being based in France means we adhere to some of the strictest legislation out there. For instance, take our approach to chemical regulations. While legislation may allow a certain level of certain chemicals, our internal standards go above and beyond. We’ve set parameters that often surpass regulatory limits. For instance, while the law may permit 50 or 75 parts per million of a particular chemical, we might set our acceptable level at zero. It’s a bold stance, but one we’re proud to take. In fact, we believe we’re the only ones in the world implementing such rigorous standards.
AR: Could you take us through the innovative technology incorporated into your products?
Gianluca: We have an exclusive GMP technology for coating process and weft-insertion technology. The unique Global Molecular Point (GMP) process, patented by Chargeurs PCC, was created to develop a coating with optimal adhesion for a diverse range of fabrics, while preventing strike-through. GMP ensures ideal garment stability over time, respecting the integrity of the fabric and preserving its flexibility and durability. Through close collaboration with Karl Mayer, a leading figure in textile machinery construction, innovative machines featuring weft-insertion technology were developed. The weft-insertion technology allows for the incorporation of supplementary yarns across the fabric’s weft direction. The technology delivers remarkable resilience and recovery in the weft direction, while ensuring breathability, high stability and control in the warp direction.
