The 17th edition of the prestigious India Couture Week 2024, hosted by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) in collaboration with Reliance Brands, was a celebration of creativity and craftsmanship held from July 24-31 at the Taj Palace Hotel in New Delhi.
The week-long showcase was a testament to the rich heritage and innovation of Indian fashion, highlighted by standout collections from 14 esteemed couturiers, each bringing their unique vision to the runway. Each collection was a masterclass in artisanal finesse, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, setting new trends and reaffirming the timeless beauty of Indian couture. We highlight a few standout collections that are setting the tone for the future of couture and craftsmanship, alongside key business insights that can be adopted from leading Indian couturiers to navigate the complex Indian couture and high fashion market.
Amongst them, designers such as Jayanti Reddy’s ‘Evocative Nawabi Canvas’ paid homage to Hyderabad’s regal past with intricate, nature-inspired embroidery and vibrant, luxurious surfaces, while Rahul Mishra’s ‘Nargis’ collection celebrated nature’s beauty with hand-embroidered florals and a commitment to sustainable craftsmanship.
Rimzim Dadu merged Baroque grandeur with avant-garde design, featuring metallic yarns and innovative textile techniques that highlighted her dedication towards textile exploration.
Roseroom by Isha Jajodia’s ‘Art of Eternity’ collection drew inspiration from French architectural grandeur and artisanal heritage, blending intricate lace patterns with botanical motifs reminiscent of Versailles, while Siddartha Tyler embraced the extravagance and sensual allure of the Roman Emperor Caligula, defined by its use of crystals, sequins, rhinestones and layered volumes. Kunal Rawal’s ‘Sehra’ collection celebrated the rich traditions of Indian weddings, blending cultural symbolism with modern luxury. The collection’s integration of music and ceremony into its presentation highlighted the emotional and cultural significance of the attire.
Read on to discover in detail.
JAYANTI REDDY
Nawabi roots
Jayanti Reddy’s couture collection at FDCI India Couture Week 2024 is a love letter to her Nawabi roots in Hyderabad. The collection is depicted as a dazzling Nizami canvas where antique motifs come alive over heritage textiles.
Characterised by its intricate craftsmanship and historical depth, the collection weaves a rich tapestry of cultural and historical influences that merge the opulence of Nizami heritage with contemporary design sensibilities. Featuring around 40 meticulously curated looks, Jayanti Reddy’s latest offering celebrates India’s regal past by blending traditional textiles and antique motifs with modern couture elements.
The collection is heavily inspired by Nawabi influences, characterised by their ornate high jewellery and lavish lifestyles which is reflected in the collection’s luxurious fabrics and intricate detailing, signalling a resurgence of regal aesthetics in couture.
Furthermore, the use of heritage textiles and antique motifs pays homage to traditional craftsmanship while reinterpreting these elements for a contemporary audience, thereby highlighting a growing appreciation for historical influences in modern couture, blending cultural reverence with innovative design.
Notably, the collection embodies the principles of slow fashion, emphasising handcrafted details, sustainable practices and timeless elegance. This approach not only aligns with the growing consumer demand for sustainability but also reinforces the value of artisanal craftsmanship in a fast-paced fashion world.
Traditional Nawabi embroidery techniques such as intricate threadwork and embellishments that capture the essence of Hyderabad’s regal heritage come alive over contemporary designs, offering a unique blend of historical charm and modern elegance. Jayanti’s use of layered textiles and embellishments creates a rich, tactile experience. The collection’s emphasis on sartorial finesse, including tailored silhouettes and precise finishing, highlights a trend towards high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Business Insight:
Jayanti Reddy’s latest couture collection shines the spotlight on the growing market for couture that merges heritage with modernity. For fashion businesses, this collection highlights the potential of leveraging historical influences to create unique, high-value garments that resonate with both traditional and contemporary audiences.
The emphasis on slow fashion and meticulous craftsmanship aligns with a broader industry trend towards sustainability and authenticity, offering valuable insights into consumer preferences for meaningful, culturally rich luxury fashion. Brands looking to differentiate themselves should consider incorporating elements of heritage and history into their collections, as demonstrated by Jayanti Reddy’s masterful integration of Nawabi elegance and traditional textiles.
RIMZIM DADU
Baroque inspiration
Rimzim Dadu’s latest couture collection is a symphony of historical opulence and modern innovation where Baroque architectural grandeur meets Rimzim’s avant-garde flair. The collection blends intricate craftsmanship with cutting-edge techniques over experimental textiles that are synonymous with the brand, transforming age-old motifs into modern masterpieces.
Metallic yarns, steel wires and traditional zardozi come together in a tactile celebration of Baroque carvings and gilded details to create a sensory feast reminiscent of the luminous Baroque interiors.
The collection’s use of exaggerated silhouettes, such as corset tops, sculptural sarees and voluminous lehengas, reintroduces a sense of drama and grandeur into couture. These shapes, paired with deep, opulent colours like ruby reds, antique golds and burnt oranges, highlight the collection’s Baroque inspiration while catering to modern tastes.
The use of unconventional materials such as metallic yarns, steel wires and traditional zardozi which add a distinctive edge, is the collection’s standout feature. In addition, ornate surface designs highlight a trend towards tactile luxury, emphasising fashion’s evolving focus on creating rich sensory experiences.
Furthermore, the use of traditional zardozi in combination with modern materials exemplifies a technique to watch out for. By reinventing this age-old embroidery method, Rimzim is able to create pieces that are both historically rooted and forward-thinking, appealing to a market that values both heritage and innovation.
Business Insight:
Rimzim Dadu’s 2024 Couture collection is a strong indicator of where luxury fashion is headed – towards a seamless integration of historical inspiration and modern technology. For fashion businesses, this collection highlights the importance of investing in textile innovation and the reinvention of traditional techniques to stay ahead of the curve. The emphasis on cutting-edge material experimentation offers a blueprint for creating collections that are both timeless and innovative. As the demand for unique, statement-making couture pieces continues to grow, Rimzim’s approach to design provides valuable insights into how brands can blend heritage with modernity to captivate today’s luxury consumers.
Rimzim Dadu’s experimentation with materials such as metallic yarns and steel wires reflects a broader trend in fashion where the boundaries of textile design are constantly being pushed, creating garments that are as much about texture as they are about visual appeal.
KUNAL RAWAL
Sehra Festive Couture 2024 Collection
Kunal Rawal’s Sehra brings about a celebration of Indian wedding traditions, reimagined through the lens of modern luxury. This collection paints a vivid tapestry that weaves together India’s rich cultural heritage with contemporary design sensibilities, creating a seamless blend of the old and the new.
Androgyny, that has come to become symbolic of the brand, notably stands out as a key trend, with garments that transcend traditional gender norms. This approach not only broadens the appeal of the collection but also reflects a growing trend in fashion towards inclusivity and fluidity in design. To add to it, Kunal expertly integrates traditional Indian textiles such as silk, brocades, bandhani and ikat with contemporary design techniques.
Kunal’s innovative use of his signature ‘Dhup Chao’ threadwork, which skillfully manipulates light and shadow, breathes new life into fabrics, while creating a dynamic visual effect. Additionally, the introduction of larger, more pronounced interpretations of his signature French knots brings a modern twist to traditional craftsmanship, pushing the boundaries of classic techniques. The emphasis is on larger, bolder micro motifs that add depth and visual interest to the garments, making them stand out in the crowded wedding couture market.
Taking the presentation a notch higher, Kunal collaborated with music duo Akshay & IP for the second consecutive season, crafting exclusive soundtracks for the Sehra collection, perfectly timed for the upcoming wedding season. This approach of integrating music not only complements the fashion showcase but also enhances the overall narrative, transforming Sehra from a mere collection into a fully immersive experience that offers the audience a deeper, more engaging connection with the brand.
The seamless integration of music with fashion in the Sehra collection points to a trend where storytelling through multiple sensory experiences becomes a key aspect of high-end fashion showcases. This multi-sensory approach can elevate a brand’s narrative and create a more immersive experience for the audience.
Business Insight:
Sehra by Kunal Rawal presents itself as a masterclass in blending tradition with innovation, a strategy that is becoming vital in today’s luxury landscape. The collection’s androgynous appeal, combined with its deep roots in Indian culture, positions it well to attract a diverse clientele, both in India and internationally. The use of traditional textiles in contemporary ways, along with its bold embroidery techniques, sets a new standard for luxury wedding couture. Investing in these trends could prove profitable, particularly as the global demand for unique, culturally resonant and high-quality wedding attire continues to grow. Furthermore, the seamless blend of music and fashion in this collection highlights a growing trend towards high-end showcases, where storytelling through multiple sensory experiences is becoming increasingly vital.
ROSEROOM BY
ISHA JAJODIA
The Art of Eternity Couture Collection
Roseroom’s latest couture offering, ‘Art of Eternity’, brings to light a world where heritage and modernity converge in perfect harmony inviting us to explore the profound marriage between tradition and innovation. The collection is a love letter to the grandeur of French architecture, with each piece echoing the opulence and intricacy of iconic landmarks such as Versailles.
Lace takes centre stage, not just as a fabric but as an intricate narrative tool that enhances each silhouette. The delicate patterns resemble stained-glass windows, adding a layer of historical reverence while maintaining a modern, airy elegance. A notable trend is witnessed in the seamless integration of botanical motifs inspired by French gardens that are embroidered into the fabric, creating an organic flow that mimics the beauty of nature, making it a key trend for the upcoming season.
Roseroom’s signature romantic silhouettes, crafted from ethereal fabrics such as chiffon and organza, capture a fairy tale-like essence, set to inspire bridal couture and eveningwear in the coming season. Isha’s collection stands out as a showcase of Indian hand craftsmanship, where meticulous embroidery, beadwork and appliqué techniques transform each garment into a true work of art.
This collection’s intricate beadwork and appliqué highlight a broader trend in couture—an embrace of handcrafted, highly detailed garments. Look out for bespoke elements that carry a custom narrative. These personalised touches such as embroidery that tells of a love story or fabric choices that reflect personal sentiment, are becoming increasingly significant in high fashion, catering to a growing demand for unique, meaningful luxury.
Business Insight:
For fashion businesses and design houses, this collection highlights the importance of blending historical references with contemporary design, particularly in the luxury segment. The revival of intricate hand craftsmanship and the use of narrative-driven design elements signal new opportunities for brands looking to differentiate in a saturated market. With consumers increasingly vying for pieces that tell a story, embracing such trends could enhance brand loyalty and command premium pricing.
SIDDARTHA TYTLER
‘Caligula’s Feast’
Couture Collection
Siddartha Tytler’s ‘Caligula’s Feast’ collection emerges as a bold exploration of decadence and excess, channelling the opulent spirit of its namesake, the infamous Roman emperor. This collection is a visual feast that revels in the lavishness of ancient Rome, reinterpreted through a contemporary lens. Siddartha has masterfully combined indulgent textures with a rich palette, creating garments that are as powerful as they
are luxurious.
The collection’s reliance on deep, rich jewel tones such as ruby, emerald, royal blue and black signals a return to bold, statement colours in couture. These tones, combined with metallic accents of gold and gunmetal, create a visual impact that is both regal and contemporary. Extravagant surfacing emerges as a hallmark of the collection with crystals, sequins and rhinestones meticulously applied to create a shimmering effect, reminiscent of Caligula’s grandiose tastes. This trend of maximalist embellishment is set to dominate the couture landscape, particularly in festive and bridalwear. Layered volumes add drama to each piece, whether in the form of billowing lehengas or structured sherwanis, while the use of fur and luxe fabrics underscores a trend towards tactile luxury. The strategic use of fur as an accent, rather than as a dominant feature, introduces a modern approach to a traditional element. These elements not only enhance the opulence factor but also add a sensual dimension to the collection, making them particularly appealing for high-end markets.
The combination of various embellishment techniques— crystals, sequins and appliqué— on a single garment creates a multi-dimensional effect that’s both visually and texturally rich. We expect this layered approach to likely be a key technique in upcoming collections, as designers seek to add depth and complexity to their creations.
Business Insight:
Siddartha Tytler’s latest couture collection reflects a broader market trend towards unabashed luxury and the return of opulence in couture. As consumers, particularly in emerging markets, seek out more extravagant and statement-making pieces, collections such as that of Siddartha’s will find a receptive audience. For brands, this signals an opportunity to explore maximalist aesthetics and invest in high-quality materials and artisanal techniques that deliver a sense of grandeur and exclusivity. The integration of fur and rich embellishments also presents an opportunity for luxury brands to differentiate themselves in the market, particularly in the context of high-end bridal and eveningwear.
RAHUL MISHRA
Nargis Couture Collection
Rahul Mishra’s latest couture collection, titled Nargis, is a deeply personal and spiritual exploration of nature’s influence on human life and design. With intricate embroidery and a focus on artisanal craftsmanship, Nargis transforms everyday experiences into high couture, embodying the essence of nature’s influence on our lives.
The collection highlights the trend of integrating nature into luxury fashion while celebrating natural elements such as flowers, birds and fruit through detailed embroidery, offering a fresh take on nature-inspired couture. An impressive array of traditional hand-embroidery techniques, including aari threadwork, bugle beads and kundan embellishments come to life, highlighting artisanal craftsmanship and a growing appreciation for the skill and artistry involved in couture design.
Rahul makes use of vibrant colours and textures, including rhinestone crystals, freshwater pearls and sequins, to add a rich visual and tactile quality to the collection. He skillfully reimagines ancient embroidery techniques— such as nakshi pita work and detailed aari thread-work— demonstrating a trend towards modernising traditional Indian crafts.
Rahul Mishra’s latest offering also emphasises a commitment to ethical fashion practices by facilitating the reverse migration of embroidery artisans to their village communities. With over 1,200 artisans contributing to Nargis, this approach highlights the value of collaboration and community in couture. It not only adds authenticity to the collection but also supports local craftsmanship, marking a significant trend in sustainable fashion.
Business Insight:
Rahul Mishra’s Nargis collection highlights the increasing importance of nature-inspired design and artisanal craftsmanship in luxury fashion. For fashion businesses, this collection highlights the value of integrating environmental themes and traditional techniques into high couture, appealing to a market that values both aesthetic beauty and ethical practices.
Rahul’s undying commitment to supporting artisan communities and promoting sustainable fashion practices offers valuable insights for brands looking to differentiate themselves in the competitive couture market. The focus on intricate hand embroidery and vibrant surfaces also signals a trend towards more personalised and artisanal approaches in couture. Investing in these areas could enhance a brand’s appeal for discerning consumers who seek both luxury and meaningful craftsmanship.
