The fashion industry has long faced criticism for its environmental footprint. However, many innovative fabrics are emerging, offering eco-friendly alternatives and challenging the very essence of what fashion fabrics can be made from. These promising materials, such as Apple Leather, Mango Fibre, Banana Fibre, Bamboo Fibre amongst others, also serve to repurpose various waste products and by-products that would otherwise pollute landfills or oceans. While these materials offer benefits such as waste management, water conservation, reduced carbon emissions and soil regeneration, it’s important to note that no fabric can be deemed entirely sustainable.
According to a report by Boston Consulting Group (BCG), the sustainable fashion market in India is projected to reach US $ 9 billion by 2025. The report also indicates a growing awareness amongst Indian consumers regarding sustainable products, along with an increased willingness to pay for them. While the journey towards an eco-friendly fashion industry is ongoing, significant strides have already been made.
Apple fibre
Sarjaa, a newly-launched homegrown brand founded by Anjana Arjun, turns apple skin into handcrafted bags. Sarjaa claims to not use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which is a form of vegan leather, chemicals, phthalates, animal leather and other toxic ingredients. Given the niche appeal of the product, their handbags are created in small batches by a small team with a focus on zero wastage.
Anjana stated that while she initially struggled with sourcing apple skin leather, the true challenge lay in working with the material itself. She stressed the importance of selecting the right thread and needle due to the fragility and unique properties of the material, making it tough to ensure strength and suitability for each design.
Internationally, several brands have incorporated apple leather into their collections such as Good Guys Go Vegan, Ashoka Paris, Frida Rome and Oliver Co. London.
Algae-based fibre
Recently, Aditya Birla Group’s Birla Cellulose partnered with Algaeing, a start-up from Berlin and Israel. Algaeing has harnessed algae as a source to produce fibres and dyes. Together, they have introduced an eco-friendly ‘algae-powered’ cellulosic fibre, aiming to ‘detoxify the textile industry’. Birla Cellulose, a leader in Viscose Staple Fibre (VSF), operates 12 sites for pulp and fibre manufacturing.
Algaeing’s innovative processes significantly reduce water and energy usage compared to traditional methods, prioritising sustainability. The algae is grown in closed-loop vertical farming that requires only solar energy and salty or desalinated water. Its scalable and patented technology is compatible with existing production machinery.
The algae-powered fibre provides a range of naturally occurring colours inspired by algae’s vibrant hues while eliminating the need for traditional dyeing processes. Moreover, other international companies are also exploring the use of algae in textiles. For instance, Vollebak, a British clothing brand, has developed a biodegradable T-shirt incorporating eucalyptus and beech pulp, along with algae.
Mango leather
With a breakthrough in 2023, scientists at the Chennai-based Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI) harnessed the potential of ‘King of Fruits’ by successfully creating a leather-like material using mango pulp, suitable for making bags, belts and more. Beyond these products, mango leather can be further utilised in the apparel industry to create a variety of items. It holds promise for footwear, belts, jackets, skirts, pants and watch straps, offering innovative and sustainable options in fashion.
This eco-friendly alternative to synthetic leather contains 50 per cent mango pulp and degrades faster than polyurethane leather. CLRI scientists, who have applied for a patent, transferred the technology to Mumbai-based start-up Aamati Green Private Limited, the sponsor of the research and development.
According to CLRI Chief Scientist P. Thanikaivelan, the team combined mango pulp with a biopolymer in liquid and powder form, undergoing a straightforward process to produce a sheet-like material. They then applied a surface coating and added design patterns to enhance the material’s aesthetics.
Fruitleather in the Netherlands is the only company producing mango-based leather-like material. With India being the largest producer of mangoes, yielding around 20 million tonnes annually, there’s ample opportunity to utilise discarded mangoes – up to 40 per cent of the total – as a sustainable resource for producing this eco-friendly material.
To foster more innovation, there should be increased collaboration between government research institutes and the private sector, according to Pratik Dadhania, Founder of Aamati Green Pvt. Ltd. However, he cautioned that government institutes are highly selective in their collaborations and partnerships. Therefore, any biotechnology company seeking to engage with them must support its research with substantial and verifiable data.
Pratik emphasised the importance of targeting the international market. “Currently, we’re receiving significant interest from Northern Europe, particularly Denmark, Sweden and Norway, which are at the forefront of climate change initiatives and sustainability policies. When you engage with such forward-thinking consumers, you tap into a market driven by conscious buying. This level of consumer awareness is still evolving in India and may not fully materialise until around 2050.”
In India, brands can target ultra-high-net-worth individuals. As per Pratik, “Nowadays, people seek items that aren’t readily available in stores. Ultra-high-net-worth individuals, in particular, crave exclusivity; they’re willing to pay a premium for something unique. Brands can also tap into the rising corporate gifting trend.”
The corporate gifting market is worth Rs. 12,000 crore and is growing rapidly every year by more than 200 per cent. Notably, there’s an 80 per cent preference for eco-friendly gifts in this market, reflecting a strong emphasis on conscious consumption and positive messaging. In fact, there are now brands exclusively dedicated to provide sustainable gifting solutions.
Banana fibre
As a rich source of potassium, bananas are not only a staple in diets but are also increasingly catching the eye of emerging brands due to the fibre found in their peels and stems.
Founded in 2022, Maleema, an eco-friendly unisex brand, specialises in collections made from bamboo and handloom weaves, including T-shirts, shorts and other apparel items. The brand also offers a unique line of accessories, such as bags and home decor items, crafted from banana fibre, comprising a blend of 90 per cent banana and 10 per cent cotton. Expansion plans include introducing hemp collections and products made from recycled cork materials.
“We source raw materials directly, particularly banana fibre, from local farmers and weavers. The brand actively collaborates with over 60 to 70 farmers, providing them with consistent work opportunities. We also conduct workshops to educate rural women about banana fibre production and assist in setting up small-scale units through government schemes,” said Srinithyaa, Founder, Maleema. The brand also has a small manufacturing unit in Salem, Tamil Nadu.
In addition to the traditional audience, Maleema is also receiving substantial orders from corporate clients.
Anakaputhur, a weaver’s village in Chennai, has gained attention for innovatively using banana fibre to craft eco-friendly jeans and skirts. These garments, crafted by weavers affiliated with the Jute Weavers Association, boast enhanced water (sweat) absorption, ideal for the summer months. Utilising natural dyes and coconut shell buttons, they offer a sustainable alternative to traditional denim jeans, free from metal rivets and zips.
| Currently, we’re receiving significant interest from Northern Europe, particularly Denmark, Sweden and Norway, which are at the forefront of climate change initiatives and sustainability policies. When you engage with such forward-thinking consumers, you tap into a market driven by conscious buying. Pratik Dadhania Founder, Aamati Green Pvt. Ltd. |
India is the world’s largest banana producer accounting for 26.45 per cent of the world’s banana production at 35.36 million metric tonnes. In 2022-23, India exported bananas worth US $ 176 million, equivalent to 0.36 MMT. There’s a huge potential to cater to domestic as well as international markets.
For clothing brands, banana fibres show great promise, but the challenge lies in converting these fibres into usable yarns.
“When we extract fibres from the plant, there are often hidden fibres in the yarn, requiring a chemical solution to extract them. This process is costly and complex, making it difficult to achieve a cotton-like feel in the fabric. Currently, a significant amount of banana fibre is imported from the Philippines due to lower costs compared to India. However, advancements in technology suggest that banana fibre production may increase in the future,” said Jayendrasingh Rawal, Partner, Go Green Agri Solutions, a company based in Shirpur, Maharashtra that produces Banana Fibre Extraction Machines.
Similarly, Jalpa Patel, Founder, JcraftEco, a GOAT-certified organisation producing various eco-friendly fibres like Hemp, Bamboo, Organic Cotton, Aloe Vera, Honey, Viscose, Modal, and Tencel, also highlighted the challenges posed. “For instance, bamboo fabrics pose a challenge due to stitching issues. The fibres require extensive processing to ensure comfort, which takes time and effort. Similarly, Aloe Vera fibres face stitching challenges that demand significant processing for optimal comfort.” Based in Ahmedabad, JcraftEco operates as a fully integrated garment manufacturing company with a monthly capacity of 300,000 pieces.
Despite facing challenges, Jalpa Patel and other stakeholders are optimistic about the future of lesser-known sustainable fabrics. “With the fashion industry increasingly embracing sustainable practices, there is a growing demand for eco-friendly fibres.”
