Just when we thought that the world is ready to come out and celebrate in full swing given the pandemic turning its ugly head away from the scene and life as we have known it, disruption and panic came in the form of Russia’s concerning invasion of Ukraine.
The Fall/Winter 2022-23 collections that ensued in the top fashion capitals namely, New York, London, Milan and Paris from 11th February to 8th March 2022, originally intended to herald renewed business energy, and a new normal ended up voicing the thoughts of billions around the globe as they condemn Putin’s decision.
In this regard, we saw the first couple of cities burst with elevated party looks and look-at-me details – a direct reflection of the mood of the times wherein consumers can’t wait to ditch pandemic suffocation to opt for free expression and a celebration of life.
On the other hand, as the war broke out in Ukraine, fashion bigwigs responded by carrying out statement shows such as that presented by Giorgio Armani, who ditched his initial grand plans and instead showcased a silent show in solidarity with Ukraine.
Demna Gvasalia, on the other hand, recounted his own traumatic experience as a Georgian refugee at the tender age of 10, when he and his family were forced to flee their homeland as Governments ensued war with each other.
The presentation saw models struggling forward, not giving up, striding against driving snow and wind, some carrying heavy tote bags. The showcase took on a whole other meaning in the agonising context of current reality as hundreds of thousands flee the familiarity of their homes to wander in the unknown for safeguarding their lives.
The messages delivered on international runways have been accompanied by the mass exodus of leading fashion brands and retailers including Inditex, H&M, Marks & Spencer, Nike, amongst many others, and luxury bigwigs such as LVMH, Kering, Burberry, Ganni, etc.
As the world encounters a wave of post-pandemic freedom, a stark contrast to a dystopian view of the world, designers and high fashion brands alike offer two distinct themes – one that mixes practical, comfy clothes that highlight roomy silhouettes, marked with colourful, sexier and much more glamorous outfits, alongside a hymn to the femininity that has been stifled in the past two years, and an urge to break free of repressive scenarios.
Read ahead to discover the top trends in fashion spanning products, details, accessories and silhouettes, for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2022-23 season, as seen on the recently concluded international runways!
TRANSPARENT
As the world demands for greater clarity and transparency across all areas, so does also the trend that filters into the fashion domain, translating into the Fall/Winter 2022-23 runways in the form of see-through surface materials.
Diaphanous fabrications come in the form of sheers, nets, organza, chiffon, lace and tulle, and feature across multiple product categories right from tops as spotted at Balmain, to skirts the likes of which were seen at Bibhu Mohapatra, to floor length body hugging dresses as seen at 16 Arlington and Lecourt Mansion, tiered dresses à la Alberta Ferreti, lace shirts and skirts courtesy Aniye Records and Baum Und Pferdgarten, respectively.
Y2K
The nostalgia for the naughts continues to soar demand for products emitting the Y2K aesthetic.
Designers and high fashion brands alike give in to the trend by churning out ample options for low waist skirts and trousers, bell bottom silhouettes, pleated skirts, tie and dye prints, vibrant coordinated sets and handkerchief tops, amongst many other trends from the beloved decade.
Details include jewel encrusted adornments in a slew of colours, studded and big buckle belts, rhine stones and bucket hats!
All this comes as no surprise given that millennials are now amongst the top spenders when it comes to fashion and accessories and who doesn’t like to revisit their growing up years?
MINI SKIRT
As the temperature dips, the lengths rise!
The Fall/Winter 2022-23 runways saw a heavy influx of mini skirt designs, the rise of which can be credited to a response to pandemic-caused restrictions.
For the upcoming season, the trend features a more structured silhouette, is more fitted than flared, is either low-rise or high-waisted, and comes in a myriad of colours to add some joviality on cold, dark days.
Key details to note include overlapping styles, as seen at Elisabetta Franchi, Giambattista Valli, Diesel and SupriyaLele; slit styles as at Balmain, Aniye Records and Diesel; sequined styles as presented by AC9, Bronx & Banco, and pleated and tiered versions as revealed by Blumarine, Onitsuka Tiger, amongst others.
OVER THE KNEE BOOTS
Risque and bold aesthetics continue to reign as thigh high boots emerge as the top footwear trend for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2022-23 season.
From vibrant pops of colour to neutral tones – leather boots can instantly elevate a look taking it from drab to fab.
They come in lace-up, dominatrix-style leather as presented by Ambush, Del Core, in fairy-tale warrior à la Balenciaga, Isabel Marrant, AC9; with a sexy twist in leather and latex courtesy Act N°1, Andreadamo, GCDS, Courrèges, andMM6; tightly swathed around the legs as suggested by Emporio Armani, Ermanno Scervino and Givenchy and also in the likes of angler-style waders as spotted at Chanel.
Givenchy paired his take on the trend with lighter dresses and bold monochrome ones to create a look that is fun yet elegant, whilst Isabel Marant seamlessly paired them with knitted mini dresses and even an oversized coat, to channel in some layered drama.
Courrèges showed how dark boots can go perfectly well with spliced leather trousers in colours such as burgundy, black, silver, cherry red and orange.
BALACLAVA
Balaclava’s have been soaring in popularity in the past few months owing to social media influenced phenomenon that have turned the piece into a viral rage.
What initially started out as being worn by British soldiers during the Crimean war to fend against Ukraine’s bitter climate, has today gained cult status when it comes to fashion accessories. Interestingly, the item gets its name from the siege of an 1853 battle in the town of Balaclava.
Appearing across both men’s and women’s Fall/Winter 2022-23 runways, the balaclava is a key piece for the upcoming season.
Global fashion shopping platform Lyst also reported a wider interest in balaclavas, wherein web searches for the headgear jumped 344 per cent year-on-year between 2021 and 2022. Lyst also recently declared balaclava as one of the hottest products during Q4 2021 based on data collected from Google, Instagram and Depop.
From Proenza Schouler to Dolce & Gabbana to Christian Cowan and Marni – the runways were awash with a slew of design options on this functional and practical trend.
CORSET
Boudoir references escape the bedroom and pop up on the Fall/Winter 2022-23 runways as designers and fashion labels get inspired by corsetry detailing.
An extension of the regency core trend, the corset is appearing in a myriad of ways, albeit in strapless versions, long sleeves, or tank sleeve corsets.
Over decades, the corset has evolved from a symbol of patriarchal oppression to one that emits feminine sexuality and empowerment. Aiming to accentuate hourglass figure, the trend taps on consumer’s growing desire to express themselves and experiment with all things risque.
The trend appeared across international runways in a multitude of fabrics and prints, from classic toile de jouy to fleece to denim, to satin to upcycled upholstery and leather.
FAUX FUR COAT
The faux fur coat serves as both a fashion statement as well as practical way to dress in the colder months.
What originally gained popularity as a necessity for quick production methods, has today come to prize itself as an animal-friendly and ethical alternative to real fur, infamous for its inhumane practices.
As consumers become increasingly woke regarding ethical treatment of animals, designers give in to the demand by adopting the faux fur instead of traditional animal-based options.
The Fall/Winter 2022-23 Fashion Weeks showcased faux fur coats in bold colour options, exaggerated silhouettes and long lengths to guard against the weather.
Alberta Ferretti, Versace, Stella McCartney and Emporio Armani presented the trend with contrasting patterns reminiscent of vintage-like designs, whilst Michael Kors opted for single all-over colourways for its exaggerated coats.
Yuhan Wang and Christian Siriano got inspired by the wild and presented a leopard print look and a blue zebra print long-line coat, respectively. Bluemarine and Dolce & Gabbana offered bold takes on colour schemes, making a statement in their own aesthetic.
LEATHER
Leather (albeit faux) has been gaining consistent popularity since the past few seasons and has evolved to embrace head-to-toe looks that comprise leather sets, leather suits, leather coats and even leather dresses – all of which were spotted in abundance at the recent international fashion weeks.
Untouchably timeless, a leather garment is possibly the best way to level-up any look and has the power to seamlessly transition from day to night, unlike many of its counterparts.
From polished surface finishes to shinier patented looks, to soft plush feels and battered, faded looks that emit laid-back texture, leather emerges as a key material from Fall/Winter 2022-23.
LONG COATS
When fashion meets practicality, the amalgamation results in a long maxi coat.
The season’s must-have coat is simple yet massively impactful — another full-length silhouette to invest in for a timeless look that is guaranteed to emerge as a bestseller across the world.
Available in a multitude of fabric options and surface finishes such as plush leathers, tweed, vinyl, knits, faux fur and shearling, the long maxi coat comes in vibrant pops of colours that takes away from drab winter moods.
FEATHER WEATHER
The party season is back in full swing, and to accentuate the same, frisky feathers are back on the scene adding a bit of much needed glam post the pandemic.
Emerging as accentuating details over feminine cuffs and as soft placements, this season is marked by feathers getting elevated to become the main focus across various product categories.
From sleeves to billowing hemlines and bird-like silhouettes, the soft texture of feathers grazed beautifully on the runways at Bronx and Banco, Christian Cowan, Lisa Von Tang amongst many others, and gave the garments a heightened personality of their own.
