Hugo Boss factory, nestled in the thriving industrial hub of Izmir, is a veritable beacon of modern manufacturing, where technology and human expertise seamlessly intertwine to make it a ‘smart’ factory par excellence. This factory where suits, jackets, shirts and coats are produced, boasts a dedicated workforce exceeding 3,500 skilled individuals and stands as a beacon of innovation in the world of fashion manufacturing.
So, what makes this factory worth talking about in the global manufacturing business landscape? The factory leverages a slew of advanced technologies, including Smart Data Management (SDM), Group Board & Line Board, Augmented Reality (AR) and Virtual Reality (VR) solutions, Active Digital Assistance (ADA) and Speech Recognition systems, all deployed across its expansive shopfloor. These high-tech components serve as the connective tissue binding the company’s four essential pillars of production: people, machines, products and processes. The connection of these pillars creates a digital twin of the factory, a remarkable accomplishment in modern manufacturing.
However, when talks around such smart factories are done in Asian subcontinent, often it’s heard that technology can take away jobs – a jargon that keeps factories away from implementing such solutions! In the long journey of technological evolution, it is not merely white-collar jobs that bear the brunt of transformation. The introduction of data gathering tools and high-end hardware automation in factories is often seen as a massive change that can sweep off the entire spectrum of the workforce – something that’s not entirely true.
“While the impact on blue-collar employees may not be immediately apparent, the looming spectre of technological disruption casts a long shadow over the future. The essence of technology in manufacturing lies not in replacing human resources but in augmenting them,” commented Munish Hinduja, MD, Gokaldas Images.
Collaboration of humans and tech is the way forward
The evolution of technology necessitates the cultivation of a workforce with the aptitude and mindset to harness and navigate these sophisticated systems. A case in point is the advent of ‘sewbots’ which, until recently, faced limitations in handling flexible fabric components, while tackling the hard ones with ease.
Prabir Jana, Professor, NIFT Delhi has his say on what all processes can be digitalised. According to him, to enhance business efficiency and productivity, it’s imperative to address key factors.
Firstly, scrutinise whether any mundane and repetitive tasks performed by human workers within the organisation are causing boredom and inefficiency. Secondly, identify potential bottlenecks that hinder overall productivity. A crucial consideration here is whether these tasks fall into the category of physical or virtual work.
“If you pinpoint even one or two tasks that exhibit repetitiveness or bottleneck issues, they should be seriously considered for automation. In case of physical tasks, industrial automation and robotics could be the ideal solution, while for virtual tasks, software automation emerges as a viable option. By strategically automating such tasks, businesses can unlock significant improvements in their operations,” mentioned Prabir.
| “Since we work with hundreds of companies in India and overseas markets, we can say technology is an enabler and enhancer that needs to be integrated into processes for good.” Jatin Paul CEO, WFX |
Nevertheless, the chasm between automation and human ingenuity remains a challenge, as many factories grapple with the perceived high capital expenditure and uncertain return on investment. The key lies in identifying areas ripe for automation, such as sampling and product development, where 3D technology has markedly reduced human intervention and material costs.
“Service providers often struggle to bridge the gap, as they fail to convince management of the potential profitability achievable through technological solutions. Disparity between vendor factories around the world exacerbates the problem, with some being highly efficient while others lag behind. The onus to harmonise these discrepancies often falls on the brands themselves and this is something we, at Puma, are doing,” averred Ajay Kumar Pandey, Head of Quality, EMEA and India, Puma.
Transition from traditional factory to digital factory requires a roadmap
The transition from an analogue factory to a digital one underscores the necessity of a coherent and efficient digital infrastructure. This transformation extends beyond the primary tasks of manufacturing, adding efficiency at every stage, including the cutting room. Investments in IoT-enabled machinery, though costly, can lead to significant improvements in output and efficiency.
Highlighting the context of how industrial revolution has impacted the way apparel manufacturing works, Joachim Hensch, Ex-MD of Hugo Boss Izmir and Founder at Joachim Hensch Consulting, mentioned, “The stages of industrial evolution are marked by changing paradigms. Industry 4.0, designed to churn best out of the industry and protect economies, paves the way for Industry 5.0, designed with an eye on the well-being of humanity and the environment. The technology underlines the importance of integrated planning software, which aids in production planning, order flow management and the efficient consumption of raw materials.”
As technology continues to evolve and digitisation gains ground, an important question emerges while making the roadmap: What are the social implications of this technological revolution? In a city like Bengaluru and its surrounding manufacturing hubs, more than 3.5 million women toil in the garment industry, forming the majority of the workforce. Their livelihoods hinge on operating sewing machines, a vocation they might continue for the next two decades. If technology supplants these jobs, the ramifications for society will be profound and it will become imperative for the government to intervene and strike a balance between human and technological employment.
In addition, experts believe that companies can be run in two ways: one where the people in charge make all the decisions (top-down) and the other where everyone in the company has a say (bottom-up). It’s really important to include the regular workers in making changes and Joachim is really enthusiastic about this idea. According to him, to make Industry 4.0 work well, everyone in the company needs to be involved and feel like they have a say. “This way, everyone takes responsibility and they all benefit from the changes, which is a big part of making the company better,” said Joachim.
| “In our manufacturing facility, we encountered a significant challenge related to efficiency and cut ratios within our cutting room operations. The existing processes were not yielding the desired results, leading to inefficiencies and wastage. In response to this issue, we decided to invest in an innovative solution – an IoT-enabled automated cutter. Although this investment involved a substantial initial cost, the outcome far exceeded our expectations, resulting in significant benefits for our operations.” Amrutesh Jaghuva ED, Quality Knitwears Pvt. Ltd. |
Scope for improvement
In the competitive world of making things, the apparel buyers are always looking for factories that can make things cheaper, faster and better. To do well, old-style factories need to change to meet the new needs of the industry. It’s high time that factories leave behind the conventional approach, identify the areas where humans are replaceable or irreplaceable and embrace the changes that Industry 4.0 and beyond bring.
“When we think about the future of making clothes in smart factories, the main thing is data. In the past, factories made a lot of just a few types of clothes, but now, people want a lot of different and personalised clothes. So, factories don’t get big orders for the same thing anymore. This change, while good for what people want, makes things more complicated for the supply chain and the factory floor. The future smart apparel factory uses data to figure out how to make all these different clothes in a modern way,” concluded Kaushlendra Narayan, Director of Operations and Outsourcing, Silver Spark.
