The fashion supply chain is actively embracing sustainability concepts like Recycling, Circular Economy and Waste Management. These principles are no longer mere concepts but are now integral components, being actively integrated by both brands and manufacturers within the industry. Cyclo Fibers – a pioneer in closed-loop production system to upcycle pre-consumer textile waste – has been contributing to make Bangladesh’s RMG supply chain sustainable. The company collects the buyer’s waste from the manufacturer, recycles it, spins it into yarn and delivers that yarn back to the manufacturer. Team Apparel Resources met Mustafain Munir, Director, Cyclo Fibers who shed light on the steps taken to address the pressing demands of sustainability standards through recycling.
AR: Can you share a brief journey of Cyclo Fibers, detailing your collaborations and the challenges faced during the initial stages?
Mustafain: The journey has been full of roadblocks – majorly it’s the availability of cotton, poly and other plant-based materials, recycling and increasing costs. The challenge has also been that the process involves maintaining the composition of accepted fibers. The varying quantity in each colour is another challenge. For example, a black or navy T-shirt is sorted and processed into fibers, retaining its colour. Initially focused on specific types of T-shirts, we have now diversified our approach to handle various waste streams across product categories effectively.
Apparel retailers should share the responsibility for promoting products made from recycled materials. I believe in the importance of providing recycling certificates that contain all details such as the usage of different recycled fibers, water consumption, carbon footprints reduction etc., and at the same time, educating consumers about the environmental aspects of the materials.
AR: How do you handle the sorting of collected waste, including mixed cotton and polyester, within your in-house facilities?
Mustafain: Currently, our sorting team consists of 60 members, including pre-sorting staff in various factories. The process primarily relies on a grading system and this involves training our workers in our factories to sort according to colours, qualities, compositions and accepted standards. We are actively working on improving our processes, both in terms of technology and the manpower required for waste handling. We acknowledge the need for a unique process customised to Bangladesh.
AR: Are you currently tracking and sharing your processes with stakeholders in the supply chain for traceability?
Mustafain: In compliance with certification standards, our factories are equipped to trace the materials’ origin and process, allowing us to understand where they are generated. Collaborating with retailers, we are establishing a sequence to further enhance this process. However, there is an inherent risk, not limited to Bangladesh but extending to other countries as well. Often, this is managed by individuals involved in the gray or black market, making it challenging to achieve complete traceability. Fortunately, the waste we receive comes from factories with high compliance levels, ensuring the materials in waste lack additional chemicals or contaminants.
AR: Can you share some exciting experiences from your involvement with various brands?
Mustafain: Yes! There is a requirement for around 20 per cent recycled material in products sourced by leading international apparel brands, but my insistence is on using 50 per cent recycled material in everything we produce which is a challenging part. With each new item we recycle, there is a ten-step processing involved before achieving the highest milestone – a 95 per cent recycled process in our organic items. What’s truly exciting is the growing willingness amongst retailers to adopt sustainable practices. Challenges exist, but I view them as opportunities for excitement and growth within the industry.
| In terms of manpower, we are making positive strides, actively hiring 30-40 individuals, with a 30 per cent representation of female workers. This aligns with our commitment to diversity and inclusion. |
AR: Are you solely focused on the Bangladesh market for waste collection or do you have plans for expansion into other markets?
Mustafain: While we are open to expand, we face challenges in importing different types of waste under Bangladeshi customs regulations. This issue is a significant point of discussion in forums such as BGMEA, BTMA and in meetings with mayors and the government. The aim is to seek approval for importing waste, not just manufacturing waste but also post-consumer waste generated during the manufacturing process. Despite obstacles, our approach is to first address issues in countries that are becoming dumping grounds, such as Ghana and other similar nations. We are progressing through the initial stages and taking multiple steps toward achieving full circularity in our recycling efforts.
AR: Beyond market expansion, what achievable goals do you envision for the next five years?
Mustafain: Over the next five years, I aim to establish robust recycling practices on a larger scale, particularly focusing on fibers and geo-textiles.
