1. By Ravi Shekhar Sharma, Vice President, Sourcing, Wovens and Womenswear at Madura Fashion Lifestyle which was acquired by Aditya Birla Group in 1999, growing to become a predominant favourite of the readymade menswear industry in India
I believe that there are various perspectives to consider when it comes to sustainable products. You can start by examining raw materials such as fabric, buttons, threads and interlinings and identifying the non-sustainable options that are commonly used by manufacturers for both domestic and export markets. Fortunately, there are alternatives available today. For instance, transitioning from regular sewing thread to thread made from recycled polyester or opting for fabric made from BCI cotton, organic cotton or even cotton fabric containing recycled cotton. These options are becoming more prevalent now, although they were less in the past. However, there are challenges associated with consumption, primarily related to cost.
For instance, using sustainable cotton versus normal cotton comes at a cost depending on the source. The choice of sustainable practices also impacts the product itself, particularly its aesthetic aspects. For example, organic cotton may appear less premium compared to regular cotton, despite having similar construction and finish. This compromise in aesthetics is a common issue when it comes to making sustainable choices. Similarly, opting for vegetable dyes for a deep colour shirt may result in less saturated colour compared to traditional dyeing methods. This compromise in aesthetic value is often a concern for consumers in the fashion industry, where looking superior and receiving compliments are important. Additionally, using organic or recycled cotton may result in decreased yarn parameters, such as lower strength and a less clean surface, ultimately affecting the quality of the fabric and garments.
Sustainability often seen as a luxury for the affluent
There are multiple ways to incorporate sustainability into your product. For instance, if you’re making a regular shirt with a standard fabric and simple dyeing, but you switch to recycled polyester buttons, you’ve improved sustainability by certain degree in the overall product. However, not all aspects of the product may be sustainable; sometimes only certain elements, like the fabric, are sustainable while others, such as buttons, threads, interlinings and packaging remain unchanged. Now, we have to dissect the product into different aspects and then check at what point have you influenced or brought sustainability. In some instances, the cost of making a fully sustainable product could almost be double, depending on the extent of sustainability incorporated. Based on our research and customer feedback, consumers expect sustainable products to be offered at the same price as non-sustainable ones. In my view, sustainability in India is often seen as a luxury for the affluent to consume. It’s similar to the example of A1 milk versus A2 milk, where the price difference is significant.
The larger responsibility for making a product sustainable lies with either the buyer in the international market or the brands engaged with manufacturers in the domestic market. However, as a manufacturing unit, we also have a role to play in sustainability. We can consider various dimensions such as social, environmental and economic sustainability. This includes choices related to water and carbon footprints, energy usage, safety arrangements and reducing wastage. Optimising fabric usage to reduce waste can both enhance sustainability and lower production costs. In our company, we’ve completely phased out poly packaging from all our products, eliminating a staggering 60 million poly bags. It’s imperative to anticipate potential regulations and prepare accordingly to avoid disruptions to our business. For instance, when we learned about impending regulations regarding freshwater consumption, we proactively engaged with suppliers to explore sustainable alternatives. Constant communication with regulatory bodies such as the state pollution board and Ministry of Textiles helped us stay informed about potential changes and prepare accordingly.
Need to set up large-scale factories
Unlike our neighbouring countries like China, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Vietnam and Indonesia, we have primarily operated with fragmented small-scale units. To compete globally, we need to invest in building modern, efficient factories on a large scale. Secondly, these factories must be equipped to meet sustainability standards and comply with societal norms. While India is investing in infrastructure, the progress in this regard has been relatively slow. However, there are promising developments happening in states like MP, Odisha and Tamil Nadu, where the government is actively providing support to the industry. India remains competitive compared to China and others primarily due to lower labour wages, but to maintain competitiveness and prepare for the future, it’s essential to ensure that our factories are not only state-of-the-art but are also aligned with global safety and sustainability standards from the outset.
It’s also crucial for all stakeholders to start with awareness. However, it alone won’t be enough; we might need penalty clauses for non-compliance. Adoption of advanced Generative AI tools at every step of supply chain from design creation to product delivery is likely to bring significant advantages in terms of crunching timelines and cost reduction while improving product sustainability scores.
2. By Minesh Pore , CEO and Co-founder of The BuyHive which makes product sourcing easy for millions of buyers worldwide using their three solutions – first, by providing a freelancer network of qualified sourcing professionals who make supplier recommendations to buyers year-round; second, by providing a B2B e-commerce platform featuring invitation-only suppliers; and third, by providing an end-to-end turnkey sourcing solution
In my opinion, many in the garment industry are merely paying lip service to sustainability. They’re more focused on maximising profits rather than genuinely embracing sustainability principles. I’ve observed that companies often set goals related to ESG (Environmental, Social and Governance) or SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals) and then just strive to meet them without delving into the deeper aspects of sustainability.
True sustainability goes beyond ticking boxes for using sustainable materials or processes. It requires a deeper analysis of our consumption patterns. We need to question whether we truly need certain materials or we can explore alternative options. For instance, Khadi, a traditional Indian textile, has been sustainable for years, but its adoption remains limited. We need to leverage new technologies to enhance the sustainability of such textiles and improve production processes. Both producers and consumers need to adopt a more thoughtful approach towards sustainability.
Manufacturers are adopting a reactive strategy
Most manufacturers are simply reacting to the demands placed on them by buyers. It’s a reactive rather than a proactive approach. Take a look at factories in India, Vietnam and China, where the bulk of manufacturing occurs. Very few are actually taking proactive steps to explore sustainable manufacturing processes or materials. They’re not investing in discovering new sustainable methods or materials that can meet buyer requirements at a reasonable cost.
What we need is a proactive approach – understanding the needs and meeting them head-on. Imagine being able to say, “Hey, I’ve got this new material that ticks all the sustainability boxes.” However, it’s surprising how few garment factories and textile manufacturers are leveraging data and analytics to enhance their processes. For instance, in garment manufacturing, machine downtime can cause significant delays and cost overruns. By using data analytics to predict when a machine is likely to fail or need maintenance, factories can proactively service equipment, reducing downtime and saving costs. A textile company might use vibration analysis and AI algorithms to predict failures in spinning machines, scheduling maintenance only when needed rather than following a rigid schedule.
A garment factory could also use data to find suppliers closer to its production facility, reducing carbon emissions associated with transportation and potentially lowering costs. Using data to drive material innovation can lead to the development of new, sustainable materials that meet consumer demand for eco-friendly products. Adidas, for instance, introduced a line of shoes made from recycled ocean plastic, a move driven by consumer demand for sustainable products and the company’s commitment to innovation. Textile manufacturing is energy-intensive, but data analytics can identify patterns and areas where energy usage can be reduced. For example, sensors can monitor energy consumption across different processes and data analytics can uncover inefficiencies, such as machines that consume more energy than necessary. Implementing more energy-efficient practices can lead to significant cost savings and reduce the environmental impact of production.
You need to shift your mindset from focusing solely on the present to considering the future – think five, ten, even twenty years ahead. What will be the market demand then? How will sustainability requirements evolve? How will cost dynamics change? It’s crucial to anticipate these shifts and proactively invest in research and development to stay ahead of the curve. Indian manufacturers must invest in R&D in several key areas such as adaptation of natural fibres, traditional craftsmanship and modern technology, zero-liquid discharge (ZLD) technologies, advanced textile manufacturing hubs, smart manufacturing, eco-friendly dyeing and finishing, textile waste management, automated cutting and sewing, specialty fabrics for global markets, skilling and reskilling workforce, supply chain traceability and compliance with international standards. I haven’t noticed any innovative approaches or strategies from garment manufacturers in this regard. Most of the time, it boils down to cost considerations.
Consumers influenced by propaganda
Consumers are heavily influenced by the information and propaganda they encounter. To me, consumer represents the weakest link in the supply chain. They often make decisions based on superficial factors like appearance, price and convenience, rather than delving into the processes and materials behind the products. Mass consumers typically aren’t concerned about sustainability beyond surface-level claims. In my opinion, true sustainability won’t be driven by luxury brands like Louis Vuitton or Gucci, as they can easily afford to market themselves as sustainable without much accountability. The real impact will be seen when more accessible international brands, like Zara or domestic retailers like Shoppers Stop prioritise sustainability throughout their entire supply chain, from materials to manufacturing processes.
In India, government schemes and initiatives hold significant sway, and if sustainability were to become a key component of a flagship government program, it could catalyse meaningful change. Picture this: ‘Make Sustainable in India’ as the next big Pradhan Mantri Yojana (Prime Minister’s scheme). This way, it becomes a national priority, backed by government support and resources and that’s when we’ll start to see real progress.
Offering tailored solutions
Each buyer, each market, has its own specific requirements and expectations. So, as a supplier, it’s crucial to proactively address those needs and offer solutions that bridge the gap between their sustainability goals and what you can provide. For instance, if you’re aware of the EU’s SDGs and how they impact your clients’ businesses, you can leverage that knowledge to showcase your commitment to sustainability
and offer solutions that resonate with their objectives.
In India, lot of family-owned businesses, often called ‘Lala’ companies, are now passing the reins to a new generation of leaders. And what’s intriguing is that this new generation, despite not excelling academically, has been exposed to global education and Western culture. They understand the importance of sustainability and the values associated with it; it’s just a matter of putting that knowledge into practice.
