Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword anymore – it’s a must-have for businesses worldwide. Incorporating sustainable practices into products, supply chains and business operations is now a priority for the entire supply chain. Key providers of end-to-end assurance, testing, inspection and certification services are leading the way, helping the apparel industry go green. Offering tailored and standardised solutions, these industry leaders harness their expertise, partnerships and innovative technologies to empower businesses in achieving their sustainability objectives, meeting regulatory standards and gaining a competitive edge in today’s eco-conscious market.
Lately, there has been a growing emphasis on Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS), particularly on emerging products, industries and users of these ‘forever chemicals’ that previously flew under the radar. The focus is also on enhancing supply chain traceability and transparency to overcome barriers to achieve a circular economy.
PFAS Regulations
Several European nations, including Norway and Germany, have proposed restrictions targeting various PFAS compounds like perfluorohexane-1-sulphonic acid (PFHxS) and undecafluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA). Moreover, authorities in Germany, Denmark, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden have introduced a comprehensive restriction including a wide array of PFAS applications.
In the United States, while there is no federal ban on PFAS in textiles, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has initiated regulatory efforts within the textile and garment industries. These efforts include mandatory reporting of data on PFAS production and usage, restrictions on certain PFAS and the establishment of Voluntary Stewardship Programs to encourage reduction in PFAS usage amongst textile manufacturers.
Additionally, several states have implemented their own regulations concerning PFAS in textiles and garment industries. For instance, California passed a Bill to phase out the use of PFAS chemicals in apparel and textiles by 1st January 2025. Similarly, Colorado will prohibit PFAS chemicals in fabric treatments starting 1st January 2024 and in indoor textile furnishings from 1st January 2025.
Meanwhile, in China, the Ministry of Ecology and Environment released the List of New Pollutants for Priority Management (2023) in December 2022, featuring PFOS and PFOA. This list, effective since 1st March 2023, governs the chemical industry and may have implications for the textile sector.
Manu Gahlowt, Director – Softlines, Intertek India, a Total Quality Assurance provider to industries worldwide with a network of more than 1,000 laboratories in 100+ countries, emphasised that, “These forever chemicals are now coming under increased scrutiny due to their adverse effects on health and the environment. As more US state laws ban PFAS and the EU tightens restrictions, apparel companies must enhance chemical scans to detect and mitigate PFAS presence.”
He added, “Intertek is actively involved in monitoring PFAS and ensuring compliance with evolving regulations and offers holistic solutions for brands and retailers to navigate complex regulations, ensuring compliance and safety. We facilitate a thorough understanding of regulations, assist in gap analysis, develop tailored protocols and ensure market readiness through rigorous testing and certification.”
“We also recently adapted our UL ECVP 2884 Environmental Claim Validation Procedure for Substance Content Claims to validate that a product has no detectable PFAS,” said Charan Singh – Senior Director and Global Industry Lead for Retail and Consumer Products at UL Solutions, a global independent safety science company that delivers testing, inspection and certification services, together with software products and advisory offerings in more than 100 countries.
“Eurofins have a range of PFAS testing services across the supply chain, including materials and products using state-of-the-art analytical techniques like tandem mass spectrometry and Combustion ion chromatography,” said Karthik ND , Regional Managing Director – South Asia, Eurofins. Spread across 62 countries, Eurofins provides testing, inspection and certification services and performs over 450 million tests every year.
Moreover, Karthik stated, unlike traditional RSL chemical testing (which is based on target analytes), their Chem-ST™ smart chemical testing solutions look for both target analytes and other non-regulated chemicals of concern in one system. This is ideal for customers that seek to cleanse their supply chain of all potentially harmful chemicals.
Another significant concern is microplastic or microfibre shedding, where tiny plastic particles from synthetic fabrics are released during washing, contributing to marine pollution. Textiles account for upto 35 per cent of marine microplastics pollution.
Manu said Intertek is actively involved in The Microfibre Consortium’s (TMC) Microfibre 2030 Commitment and has over 10 labs accredited to perform microfibre testing using TMC Test Method worldwide.
Focus on Circularity and Traceability
“Producers are increasingly challenged to contribute to circularity and SGS is at the forefront with innovative solutions such as our recycled content certification, aligning with the globally recognised ISO 14021 standard. Through comprehensive assessments conducted by our independent team, we certify products to validate the inclusion of recycled materials, providing credible evidence of sustainable development commitments,” stated Shailesh Sharma, Director Connectivity & Products – Softlines and Hardlines at SGS, the world’s leading testing, inspection and Certification company.
He said their SGS Green Marks certification and verification scheme, built on standards like ISO 17065, ISO 17029, ISO 14065, and ISO 14021, enables differentiation of products in fractured markets. With the rising prominence of recycled polyester, forecasted to reach 45 per cent market share by 2025, they offer specialised services such as Verification for Recycled polyester, ensuring compliance with standards like SGS RPET200-2022, to meet the evolving needs of the industry and drive sustainable practices forward.
According to Charan Singh, there are no laboratory tests when it comes to the world of recycled fibres and recycled content. “It is a common misconception that material with recycled content can be accurately tested in a laboratory. In reality, the only way to validate recycled material is through chain of custody (CoC) validation. At UL Solutions, we offer recycled content validation as part of our UL Environmental Claims Validation (ECV) Program,” said Charan.
According to Mangesh Kanwate, Project Manager, IDFL Laboratory and Institute, which provides a complete set of QA services for outerwear, bedding, bulk textiles and bulk filling materials, there will also likely be a greater emphasis on assessing the lifecycle environmental impact of apparel products, including carbon footprint, water usage and chemical emissions. This may lead to the development of standardised methodologies for conducting comprehensive life cycle assessments (LCAs) to quantify and compare the environmental footprint of different products.
Moreover an increased focus on transparency will likely lead to the development of standardised reporting frameworks and certification programs that enable companies to communicate their sustainability efforts effectively to consumers. Additionally, there may be an emphasis on technologies such as blockchain and digital platforms to enhance supply chain traceability and transparency, allowing consumers to access detailed information about the origins and journey of their apparel products.
“Regarding traceability, we have an internal tracking system that enables the tracing of materials from their origin to the end of the supply chain. This system covers every step, from farms to brands, and is accessible to all, regardless of the standards they adhere to,” said Mangesh.
Reflecting this viewpoint, Charan Singh stated that from a testing, inspection and certification perspective, more and more manufacturers want to have confirmation that their products are performing how they are supposed to, made from the sustainable materials being advertised, free of any toxic or hazardous chemicals and manufactured in responsible and safe factories around the world.
Paromita Roy, VP of Bureau Veritas, a French company with nearly 200 years of expertise in testing, inspection and certification, highlighted the fluidity of regulations being adopted, enforced or almost dropped, such as the European Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (which establishes a corporate due diligence standard on sustainability issues for businesses operating in the EU), which risked being dropped by some member states in Europe until a slightly watered down version was approved in mid-March of this year.
“However, other regulations continue to be proposed from the EU Digital Product Passpor to France’s AGEC law ( the anti-waste law for a circular economy) to a push for design for sustainability and end of life to anti forced labour laws,” Paromita added.
Indian Retailers Not Worried
In sustainability, Indian retailers haven’t reached the level of their Western counterparts primarily due to the lack of legislation, cost factors and relatively subdued consumer awareness. However, the industry is gradually moving towards embracing sustainability.
“We are seeing a positive development in the local Indian domestic market in using sustainable production methods with natural raw materials, recycled materials and processes, reducing water and energy usage. Some local Indian brands are focused on developing products with sustainability in mind right from the initial product design stage to the packaging phase,” said Charan.
Similar sentiments have been echoed by various third-party inspection and testing agencies such as SGC, Intertek, IDFL and Bureau Veritas.
One of the most significant challenges faced by apparel manufacturers is finding equilibrium between compliance and economic gain while avoiding the age-old issue of testing or audit fatigue. This fatigue often arises from having to duplicate efforts for multiple retailers or brand clients due to the absence of industry standardisation, noted Paromita Roy.
Moreover, bridging the gap between complying with lofty sustainability goals and the very real need for economic sustainability from all players in the supply chain poses another hurdle, said Paromita.
“In our case, the majority of our tests are conducted in-house,” said Manu Menon, Head of Quality Assurance and Technical Designing, Reliance Trends, an affordable fashion and lifestyle retailer which operates more than 2,300 stores in over 1,100 towns and cities across India.
| We primarily focus on Fabric Product Test (FPT), Garment Product Test (GPT) and Accessories test. We conduct limited chemical tests since they are not mandated by government. Manu Menon Head of Quality Assurance and Technical Designing |
“We primarily focus on Fabric Product Test (FPT), Garment Product Test (GPT) and Accessories test. We conduct limited chemical tests since they are not mandated by government. Therefore, we don’t prioritise tests related to PFAS or Azo dyes as there are no specific laws governing them. We will follow the rule of land.”
Manu said they do surprise tests by buying items from stores and checking them. They also focus a lot on pre-product testing as both FPT and GPT are pre-production tests.
For products like sportswear and activewear, maintaining high quality is essential. Brands dedicated to quality in this category regularly use testing labs for specific tests. For example, Sunil Jhunjhunwala, Co-Founder and Director at TechnoSport, a brand specialising in activewear for men and women, mentioned, “We have an in-house lab for basic tests, but we also rely on testing labs for more specialised tests like AATCC195 (moisture management), AATCC201 (drying rate), AATCC 183 (UV protection) AATCC 100 (anti-microbial finishes) and ASTM 737 for air permeability. However, tests like micro-plastic are not relevant for us since we don’t use that type of raw material.”
TechnoSport, based in Bengaluru, has its own manufacturing unit and boasts an annual revenue of Rs. 200 crore. The company utilises the services of the Wool Research Association (WRA), recognised as a centre of excellence for Sportech by the Ministry of Textiles.
For many companies, understanding how to develop and implement a credible sustainability strategy can be challenging. Knowing the important topics and beginning the process requires focus, understanding and resources.
“Our goal at Eurofins MTS Sustainability Services is to provide our customers with the products and services they need to make informed decisions about their business and strategies. We have developed a sustainability starter pack to help our customers begin their sustainability journey. This starter pack involves a materiality assessment,” claimed Karthik ND.
“A Eurofins Sustainability Services, materiality assessment is a structured exercise facilitated by our team to engage company stakeholders to find out how vital specific environmental, social and governance issues are to them. The insight generated by this exercise can help to shape strategy, prioritise tasks and set goals.”
