‘Indian designers are tapping into the global market’
With its rich cultural heritage, expansive inspirational landscapes, traditional crafts, design/production infrastructure and current political climate, India has firmly established itself at the forefront of the international fashion world and is an emerging leader in the domain of fashion. Even the 2017 McKinsey survey stated that India is poised for growth as a sourcing hub for both craftsmanship and materials.
This has led to India emerging as a booming luxury consumer goods market with luxury retailers expecting a 30 per cent – 40 per cent surge in sales. Iconic fashion houses, automotive giants, luxury watches and jewellery makers along with makers of high-end electronics and gadgets are upbeat about the Indian market, signalling a shift in consumer dynamics and appetite for premium experiences. These brands are customising products and experiences to cater to the evolving tastes of discerning Indian consumers who seek a blend of tradition and modern luxury.
Global luxury brands are increasingly embracing Indian culture and traditions. Recently, Italian luxury fashion house Bulgari launched its first India-exclusive jewellery piece, a Mangalsutra.
Louis Vuitton debuted a ‘Rani Pink’ footwear collection for Indian festivals. Jimmy Choo released a ‘Diwali capsule collection’, while Coach launched a Diwali-themed ‘Wear Your Shine’ handbag collection. This trend of luxury brands creating India-specific products and collections has accelerated over the past year as they aim to connect with Indian consumers. Several luxury brands are expanding their presence in India by opening new stores with larger spaces. Gucci, Cartier, Louis Vuitton and others have launched boutiques in Mumbai’s new Jio World Plaza Mall. Spanish fashion house Balenciaga also opened its first India location in the same mall, while brands such as Gucci, Cartier and Louis Vuitton have renovated and expanded space for existing stores in Delhi’s DLF Emporio.
Recent high-profile collaborations between Indian artisans and luxury fashion houses have spotlighted India’s rich artistic heritage on the world stage. By fusing traditional artisanal techniques with contemporary designs, these partnerships have broadened the appeal of Indian craftsmanship for global audiences. Fashion design house and embroidery companies such as Falguni Shane Peacock, Vaishali Shadangule, Mayyur Girotra Couture, Khanijo, Jigyam By Jigya Patel, Milaaya Embroideries, Chankya International, Saks India, Amal Embroideries, Allurexports, Maximiliano Modesti and Vastrakala, now collaborate with karigars and luxury brands, providing a platform for Indian talent.
For instance, Dior’s 2023 show displayed 25 embroidery techniques, proudly highlighting the ‘Made in India’ craftsmanship. As luxury brands openly embrace Indian artisans, this partnership brings overdue recognition to generations of cultural heritage and karigar families. One hopes this interdependence continues to grow, honouring Indian craft as integral to luxury’s DNA.
Role of iconic Indian fashion designers
Moreover, maximum credit goes to Indian designers, who are tapping into the global market. Designers like Ritu Kumar, Sabyasachi, Rahul Mishra, Manish Arora, Manish Malhotra, Vaishali S and Gaurav Gupta highlight intricate embroidery, precious fabrics and vivid colours and forms that appeal to international buyers. With growing trend of corporatisation, global collaborations and international recognition are enabling Indian designers and couture labels to expand their brands.
Gigi Hadid wore a stunning outfit crafted by Rahul Mishra, featuring a long jacket adorned with intricate floral embroidery and complemented by coordinating flowing pants. The outfit showcased remarkable craftsmanship and Gigi expressed gratitude to the designer and the skilled artisans behind the creation, stating that it was an honour to celebrate and appreciate the fine artistry of India.
Craft compelling brand narratives around heritage and craftsmanship are the main inspiration for many Indian designers, serving exceptional quality standards to the global market. Indian designers have developed a strong digital presence and use celebrity collaborations strategically. They are now selling dreams, not just products, with vibrant stories and details to meet high consumer expectations.
As fast fashion and online retail expand, Indian-inspired clothing and accessories have become widely available to consumers worldwide. Shoppers integrate elements of Indian style, like block-printed scarves, beaded sandals and embroidered tops into their wardrobes. With its textiles, Bollywood glamour and creative designers, India continues to inspire global fashion, displaying the enduring appeal of its rich cultural heritage.
With its rich heritage, creative talent and forward-thinking approach, India continues to shape the future of fashion, inspiring trends and driving industry trends on a global scale.
‘Craft a strong brand strategy to boost product appeal’
The trajectory of Indian apparel within the global fashion industry is undeniably intriguing. To provide a nuanced perspective, it would be inaccurate to label us as laggards, yet we are not quite positioned as leaders or emerging leaders. I believe it’s important to understand the accolades of the fashion industry along with the challenges and a roadmap for the future.
Collaborations and Indian influence
In the domain of Indian traditional crafts, particularly handmade textiles and embroideries, our nation undeniably stands as a trailblazer. It’s not uncommon to witness esteemed brands seamlessly integrating Indian elements into their haute couture collections, whether through direct collaborations with indigenous artisans or by drawing inspiration and sourcing materials from India. One illustrious instance is the partnership between the Chanakya School of Craft and renowned fashion houses such as Dior and Gucci, where Indian crafts undergo refinement to resonate with global sensibilities. Similarly, Mumbai-based Aamir Beadings and Embroideries Pvt. Ltd., counts amongst its clientele prestigious names like Alexander McQueen and Elie Saab, showcasing India’s craftsmanship on the international stage. A limited edition collaboration between Sabyasachi and Christian Louboutin further exemplifies the exquisite fusion of Indian tradition with contemporary luxury. India’s unparalleled diversity and steadfast preservation of ancient cultural traditions distinguish it as a singular entity in the world.
Targeted design intervention and retail presence
There exists a pressing need for targeted design interventions that exalt the craftsmanship and ingenuity inherent in Indian textiles and embroideries, while seamlessly integrating modern aesthetics to captivate global consumers. Achieving this demands a delicate equilibrium between upholding traditional techniques and tailoring them to align with evolving preferences and vogues. International shows such as Tranio and Who’s Next in Paris, Coterie in New York, Pitti Uomo in Milan are few platforms where Indian designers participate and make inroads in countries like New York, Paris, Tokyo, Dubai among others.
Numerous Indian brands have successfully navigated this path, with Pero by Aneeth Arora emerging as a standout example, showcasing its collections in over 20 countries through esteemed retail outlets. Another rising luminary is Dhruv Kapoor, whose innovative approaches have garnered acclaim not only in India but also in international markets spanning Japan, China and Australia, amongst others. Likewise in recent decades, numerous Indian brands such as Hemant and Nandita, Pankaj and Nidhi and Rana Gill have successfully established a presence in renowned stores like Anthropologie, Moda Operandi, Net-a-Porter and others.
The burgeoning presence of Indian brands such as Anita Dongre, Sabyasachi and Manish Malhotra in international markets indicates a significant advancement for the fashion industry. As the Indian diaspora continues to expand in both relevance and size across the globe, there is a rising appetite for Indian fashion in major metropolitan hubs worldwide. Indian designers adeptly meld traditional craftsmanship with contemporary demands, catering to evolving preferences and tastes.
| As the Indian diaspora continues to expand in both relevance and size across the globe, there is a rising appetite for Indian fashion in major metropolitan hubs worldwide. |
Effective brand strategy
Crafting a robust brand strategy is paramount to enhancing the visibility and allure of Indian-made products on a global scale. This entails a multifaceted approach, encompassing participation in international runways, showcasing merchandise in esteemed showrooms like The Collective, leveraging impactful social media outreach, forging collaborations with international influencers and outfitting prominent global figures for prestigious events such as Cannes, the Golden Globe Awards and the Emmy Awards. While the likes of Gaurav Gupta and Rahul Mishra have exemplified proficiency in deploying these strategies, there remains a call for more Indian brands with international sensibilities to emulate their success. These endeavours have started to leave a discernible mark on international fashion platforms, media channels and perceptions of Indian fashion, yet there is still considerable ground to cover.
Responsible luxury
This is the domain where we possess the potential to lead globally, thanks to our vast pool of artisans. With their skills, we can produce designs that are not only timeless but also crafted by hand, all the while remaining cost-effective. Moreover, our dedication to innovation and research in textiles, particularly in circular design, has led to the creation of novel sources of raw materials. These range from fabrics derived from agro waste to those made from recycled materials, as well as utilising waste as a medium for embellishing garments. Such initiatives are highly relevant for luxury brands worldwide, and if India can swiftly recognise and capitalise on these opportunities, we stand to gain significant prominence.
Events like the Circular Design Challenge, as witnessed in Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI, represent promising steps in this direction. Through initiatives like these, India can solidify its position as a leader in sustainable fashion, setting a benchmark for the industry as a whole.
Shift in positioning of Indian fashion globally
India is undergoing a transition from a manufacturing-focused mindset to one centered around design, albeit at a slow pace primarily due to resource constraints. Historically, our country struggled with confidence in making creative decisions, taking time to break free from this mindset. Despite possessing abundant resources, we have not fully capitalised on them, although progress has been noticeable over the past 15 years. Skillset deficiencies pose another challenge; while traditional textiles and embroidery remain our forte, adapting to evolving demands requires training artisans. Overcoming resistance to change among artisans is no easy feat, but persistent efforts, particularly from younger designers and artisans, offer hope for rapid transformation.
Credit for this shift is owed to institutes like NID, NIFT and IICD, which have trained aspirants and instilled a process-driven approach. Fashion weeks organised by FDCI and Lakme have provided platforms to glorify Indian designers.
