The debate over robotic sewing in the apparel industry has been ongoing in recent years, with concerns about the flexibility of fabric. While complete automation of sewing processes for a wide range of apparel items is not yet available, certain innovations aim to achieve similar outcomes. These advancements primarily focus on minimising human intervention, addressing the need for factories to simplify labour-intensive processes. Factory owners are advised to recognise the direct and indirect costs associated with deploying large workforce for complex tasks when automated solutions can offer more efficient and cost-effective alternatives.
Few notable innovations in this regard are automatic pick and place system, automatic thread trimming, tension adjustment, needle positioning, sewing’s real-time monitoring, digital feed and programmable memory, voice control, digital stitch length and width adjustment.
Automatic Pick and Place System
This innovation involves a system where the pick-up device can automatically pick up the fabric, position it accurately under the needle and the stacker can place it back after stitching. This advancement highly aims at reducing human intervention which has become a necessity for factories as they look to simplify arduous and complex processes which have always been carried conventionally through labour workforce.
Some companies like Vibemac innovate with automatic fabric feed systems in industrial sewing machines, using sensors and robotic arms for efficient mass production. The modified Vibemac pocket hemming machine (V700LDR) introduces a station with four loading docks, where a robotic arm transfers pockets to the transport belt. After hemming, an unloader stacks the pockets in order on the storage disk.
Tech leader Jack offers a sewing solution with robotic arms in pattern sewers, allowing one operator to oversee three machines concurrently. This automatic pattern sewer can identify and sew two different designs using a camera-equipped sewing head. The robotic arm seamlessly transfers templates between sewing stations, reducing operator costs, saving time and boosting overall productivity.
Automatic Thread Trimming
Automatic thread trimming feature has been there for a considerable period but the inclination of factories towards this technology has increased of late as it greatly saves trimming time while sewing a garment product. Generally, in a normal SNLS machine with clutch motor, the operator uses scissors, picks it up, cuts the thread, puts it back and this process takes at least 2 seconds to complete. However, sewing machines with automatic thread trimmer complete this thread trimming process in just 0.1 seconds and improve trimming efficiency from minimum 37 per cent to 100 per cent. This further reduces cost and increases work efficiency on a sewing station.
Imagine if a production line at shopfloor produces 800 garments per day and each piece takes 2 times thread cut (minimum), then all the garments will need thread trimming 1,600 times which equals to 3,200 seconds or 53.33 minutes. Given that automatic thread trimmer trims thread in just 0.1 second, installing these machines will get the job done in just 5.33 minutes collectively in a day for a complete line. This indicates at least 48 minutes can be saved in a day which is a huge saving for an exporter in today’s cost-competitive era. Companies like IMB, Jack, Juki, Duerkopp Adler, PFAFF etc., offer this feature.
Moreover, in the clutch motor system when the sewing operator uses scissors/clippers to cut the thread, the remaining thread tails are long and every garment factory employs helpers in the finishing section to trim the threads. Automatic thread trimming can reduce usage of such manual labour to a great extent saving cost.
Digital Feed System and Programmable Memory
This innovation allows factories to program sewing machines with specific stitching patterns. Premium sewing machines with digital interfaces enable users to program and store custom stitch patterns in the machine’s memory.
The integration of digital feed in a sewing machine involves separating the movement of the feed dog from the main shaft, controlled by a servo motor. A stepper motor is introduced into the machine to independently drive the feed dog. This separate stepper motor enables precise reverse feeding, design stitching and simultaneous condensed and backtack on the same seam.
Digital Stitch Length and Width Adjustment is an added feature to Digital Feed System that enables users to digitally adjust the length and width of stitches, providing greater flexibility in creating different stitch patterns. The innovation provides a customisable approach to sewing, accommodating diverse fabric types and design specifications.
Prominent examples of such machines include Brother’s S-7300A, Juki DDL-9000C, TYPICAL GC6930A etc.
| While complete automation of sewing processes for a wide range of apparel items is not yet available, certain innovations aim to achieve similar outcomes. These advancements primarily focus on minimising human intervention, addressing the need for factories to simplify labour-intensive processes. Factory owners are advised to recognise the direct and indirect costs associated with deploying large workforce for complex tasks when automated solutions can offer more efficient and cost-effective alternatives. |
Voice Control Machines
Another innovation in sewing technology is the integration of voice recognition that allows users to control the machine using spoken commands for enhanced convenience. Conventionally, if a sewing machine malfunctions, the operator notifies the line supervisor, who then alerts the mechanic to address the issue. Often, operators lack awareness of the factors leading to a machine’s breakdown.
In the market, there are sewing machines equipped with a voice guide feature, where each button on the operation panel has a voice-over providing information about technical issues such as machine malfunctions, oil leakage/level and more. Jack offers the A5 semi-dry computerised lockstitch machine and the C4 fully automatic overlock machine, both integrated with this voice-over feature. This functionality not only notifies the operator of any errors but also provides guidance on resolving them.
Real-Time Monitoring
Real-time monitoring involves the use of sensors to detect any issues during the sewing process, such as thread breakage, bobbin depletion or fabric misalignment. The application is extended to collect the production data from the sewing machine in real-time and take decisions accordingly. Sewing machines equipped with sensors can automatically stop or alert the user when a problem is detected, preventing errors and ensuring the quality of the finished product. This is particularly beneficial in industrial settings where a minor issue could lead to significant production delays.
Smart sewing machines are connected through a server and factories can check their status using a smartphone or tablet from anywhere in the world. This smart network lets you see how an entire production line is doing or even just one machine in real time. This helps identify potential issues during production and suggests ways to improve productivity.
Companies like Juki, Pegasus, Brother, Jack and Duerkopp Adler are all exploring intelligent systems for sewing. They use software to analyse the sewing process in real time, providing users with remote control and monitoring capabilities.
